Showing posts with label African hair care. Show all posts
Showing posts with label African hair care. Show all posts

Tuesday, 24 February 2015

Hair Care Basics: Moisturizing and Sealing

What is moisturizing
Moisturizing is the process of introducing water to the hair; note that the emphasis is on water. No matter what cream, lotion or spritz used on the hair, water is essential. Our hair thrives when it is well moisturized and it craves moisture to stay hydrated at all times.

Keeping hair well moisturized is important for length retention as it  prevents hair from getting brittle and breaking.

How to moisturize
The path to well moisturized hair starts on your wash day sessions when you drench the hair in water before, during and after cleansing and also deep condition the hair to introduce moisture. While deep conditioning is done at least once a week, in between these sessions the hair will still require hydration. This can be done through the use of moisturizers which may be referred to as;
  • Milks
  • Spritz
  • Creams
  • Lotions
  • Smoothies
 When in a protective style such as braids, weaves etc a liquid spritz (either bought or DIY) is more suitable for moisturizing.
To qualify as a moisturizer the first ingredient of a product should be WATER, sometimes it may be in the form of some herb-infused solution, but the presence of water is paramount. Plain water is the ultimate moisturizer and this can be used on its own or in a Do-it-yourself mix.

At the start of your hair journey it is advisable to moisturize twice a day to build up moisture levels however as your hair gets healthier once a day should be sufficient. You may however find that your hair may stay hydrated and allow you to go more than a day between moisturizing sessions. Again, this depends on your own hair; another reason why it is important to understand your hair.

Seal in the Moisture
After the application of the hair moisturizer or water, it is important that the moisture is sealed in to prevent the hair from drying out in the shortest period of time. Look at it this way; the hair has been moisturized but as you know the atmosphere and weather conditions can draw out the moisture just like it would from any other material that was drenched in water. To keep the moisture in it is recommended to SEAL after moisturizing, kind of placing a lid on a bowl of water to prevent evaporation.

Sealing involves the application of an oil or mix of oils over the hair strands after moisturizing. Butters such as shea butter, mango butter etc can also be used as sealant for hair. The oil or butter serves as an occlusive agent preventing the loss of moisture to the environment. Natural oils are preferred as sealants because of the unique properties which they pose that serve to promote healthy hair.

Moisturizing methods
In hair forums and blogs you will come across several methods of moisturizing hair including;
  1. Moisturize and Seal (M&S): The is involves the application of moisturizer and then sealing with an oil or butter.
  2. LOC Method: L.O.C stands for Liquid, Oil, Cream; in this method the products are applied in this order, a liquid product, followed by an oil based product before the application of a cream based product. For example L: Water O: an Oil and C: a styling cream or butter.
  3. LCO Method: This is a modification of the LOC method as it was argued that oils should be the final step as they serve to prevent anything from entering the hair cuticle. For the method the liquid based product will be applied first, followed by a cream based product and then finally it is all sealed with oil.
It is advisable to experiment with all methods and find what works for you considering your own hair and the products you are using.

Points to note

  1. Water is the number one moisturizer; it must be present as the first ingredient in any moisturizers.
  2. Moisturizing is incomplete without sealing in the moisture with an oil or butter.
  3. Oils are NOT moisturizers.
  4. Water moisturizing method being used; the process of keeping hair hydrated is incomplete without the sealing in the moisture.

Friday, 30 January 2015

Hair Care Basics: Cleansing

You have decided to take better care of your hair and commence a healthy hair journey but do not know where to start; this series is designed to breakdown the components of a healthy hair care regimen. First we will look into hair and scalp cleansing.

Cleansing in hair terms is the process of removing product build up and cleaning the scalp to create a healthy growth environment for hair. It is recommended to do this once every 7-10 days, cleansing can be done more often but you have to take care not use shampoo if washing for example every 3 days. Frequent washes are common when sporting shorter hair lengths like the low fade or Teeny Weeny Afro (TWA), while ladies with longer hair may choose to stretch/space out wash days. The right routine or frequency however is a personal preference and you have to find what works for you.

Types of Shampoo
Generally when researching for your healthy hair care you will find that sulfate and non-sulfate shampoos being discussed. Basically for curly/coily/kinky hair which is dry naturally; a sulfate shampoo can be very drying if used regularly. It is preferable to use a sulfate-free shampoo which is gentler and does not strip the hair and scalp of all natural oils.

Based on the function of shampoos they can be classified into; clarifying, chelating and neutralizing.

Clarifying shampoos: as the name implies they clarify the hair and strip the strands of all build up from the use of creams, moisturizers, gels, oils etc. It can be said that all sulfate shampoos are clarifiers, as they strip the hair and scalp of build up and oils.

Chelating Shampoos: these are shampoos that in addition to the clarifying action remove mineral deposits. According to Audrey Davis-Sivasothy in her book The Science of Black Hair, The bonds that minerals make with the hair, however, are stronger than those made by products, dirt and oils, Mineral bonds with the hair fiber are chemical bonds that cannot be removed with the simple surfactants found in moisturizing and clarifying shampoos. A specially formulated chelating shampoo is required to remove mineral deposits from the hair. The ingredients in chelating shampoos chemically bind to hard-water minerals and help lift them away.


Neutralizing shampoos: these are shampoos that are used at the end of a chemical relaxer process to wash out the relaxer from the hair and effectively stop the chemical action. 

Next we will examine How to Shampoo/Cleanse hair and No-Shampoo hair cleansing methods.

Your feedback is much appreciated, please leave a comments and questions below.

Happy Hair Growing!

Monday, 7 January 2013

2013 Hair Goals

This is a first for me; hair goals. I am consciously setting goals for my hair alongside goals in other areas of my life. For me what I want and hope the most to achieve this year is health and length. Towards the end of 2012 I began to learn about healthy hair care practices and have started practising these.

Healthy Hair Goals
1. Moisturise and Seal daily
2. Develop a hair care regime and follow through.
3. Relaxer stretch for at least 12 weeks
4. Deep condition weekly
5. Maintain protein/moisture balance

Length Goal
Full Shoulder-Length


*image source: http://hairdelacreme.blogspot.com/2011/01/hair-length-chart-and-site-acronyms.html?m=1